Moving on up/To the East side

Hello from Qui Nohn, Vietnam....an actual city!!! Raffi and I have been moving at a fast and furious pace. Apparently July has been given the privilege of being the month we get some serious mileage under our belts. So far it's been three days back to back of intense riding, the likes of which we have yet to see before.

Basically, we're rolling along a strip of asphalt that divides Vietnam from the South China Sea. Get a map that has Vietnam in it.....got it? See that black line that forms the border of the land and the sea? That's essentially the line that we're tiptoeing on a daily basis. Our route is etched in cliffsides, the road winding like a ribbon trying to stop the country from spilling into the water. There are much more hills to break up the monotony of what we had previously come to know. Pancake flat Cambodia didn't offer much variation, but now we're constantly uncertain what each new turn will bring. Another smooth fall where we have nothing but a sea breeze trying to slow us? An intimidating climb that tests the ability to immediately surge our bodies into pure energy in spite of the fatigue that lingers upon our shoulders with impending gravity? One thing has been static, no matter the challenge- arduous climb, headwind, cloudless sky- or delight, the scenic beauty of each day has been without comparison. Every appendage of land that even peeks out of the mainland offers a view of unending sapphire water embedded with an armada of fishing boats full of hard-working citizens catching the life that will support theirs. Looking down at the shore, the water either crashes into huge fallen boulders covered with algae or eases into softly grinded sand. All of this we see perched atop Highway 1, the silhouette in a view that even the most panoramic lens could only master in portions. It's humbling to say the least.

Two nights ago Raffi and I had the pleasure of staying in a town barely described by our Lonely Planet "bibles"....Dai Lanh. At first we were thinking, "Why didn't our books tell us about this place?" Then we realized it was for the best as we found this beach to be almost completely deserted. As a result we sit back, have a couple beers and sedate ourselves under the hypnosis of softly crashing waves and the dim light of a crescent moon. To my right was the highway we rode in on. To my left was the same highway we would depart from, hugging a mountain veiled in evening clouds. I saw both my past and my future while reclining in the harmony of the present.

The hotel was nothing to rave about. I would've liked it if 1) our toilet had flushed, ever, 2) we had hot water, but at this point I've surrendered the hope of finding that exists anymore, 3) had been given soap or shampoo or even a toothbrush as a sign of respect. Our dinner that night was something to commemorate. It consisted of some of the freshest marine creatures I've ever had the pleasure of tasting. Seafood that was probably alive early that same day. I feel bad. Those crabs and squid probably woke up about the same time we did and thought, "Man, I'm gonna go get some food, swim around a bit and relax." Then, 3 hours later, they're being digested by my stomach acid. And I thought I've had bad days.

One day and 107 kilometers later we're in the city of Song Cau. This was a hard ride. One that truly tested my capabilities mentally, physically, and spiritually. The ride was a success, but I am not the indestructible juggernaut I've hoped to become by now. The steep hills were literally crushing my will power and besides aerobic respiration and a healthy physiology I depleted my reserves of perseverance and determination making it into the small village. But again, rewarded with a large meal of fresh seafood.

After the trials of yesterday, today was easy. Only 30 kilometers and we find ourselves resting in Qui Nohn, the proper city I mentioned at the start. By 12pm Raffi and I, although already the warm recipients of more grueling hills with spectacular views mixed in a stew of heat, were relaxing at a nice hotel with the rest of the afternoon, evening and night to relax and recharge. Why recharge? Because tomorrow is going to be another long day. Something I'd like to not be reminded about for the time being since I'm enjoying this blog thoroughly (the post office I'm writing at is air-conditioned). Hope no one is terribly offended, but as a pat on the back for our respected efforts- as I am constantly envying the ease that Raffi takes to tackling such engulfing obstacles- we've been indulging ourselves with Snickers, Oreos, and Coca-Cola to ward off hypoglycemia.

Thank you everyone who has been showing us support in our ride. The comments have been appreciated past the point of what I can translate by words. Raffi is currently trying to upload more pictures as I write although I'm not sure if it will be successful. Regardless, although we wanted to say something before we wre not able to but I can tell you now that in Phnom Penh we were interviewed by a journalist from the Associated Press and our article has been published!!! I don't know which papers have picked it up, but fortunate for you I have the skinny on how to read it. Just go to http://asia.news.yahoo.com/050709/ap/d8b7lguo0.html and that should get you right to the amazing article. Thanks SO MUCH to the reporter who was gracious enough to spend as much time with us as she did, given our eccentricities as a duo. The article is more than what we were hoping for by leaps and bounds.

I'm not sure when we'll have Internet again, but rest assured we will let you know how things are going as soon as we can and as soon as we have the energy to. Fortunately I still type with my hands. If it were up to my toes I feel we'd be out of touch for quite some time. I with that, you will excuse me as I need a lot more rest before tomorrow morning and whatever beauty hides within this future.

-jacob